Look on any kitchen shelf in Symi, the Greek island and Longevity Hot Spot, and you are always sure to find a jar or several of a much-prized local food item: capers. Those unassuming-looking little green things are giants of flavor and nutrient value, so for anyone who likes Mediterranean cooking and wants to enjoy good health into the bargain, they are well worth making space in your life for.

Capers are actually the unopened flower buds of a small bush which is found growing all over Greece and Italy. They have a sharp, piquant taste which adds a burst of zest to all kinds of Mediterranean dishes and, being little and round and perfect for sprinkling, they also add decorative flair to the plate. Another thing about capers which makes me wonder why we aren’t all using them all the time is that they are very versatile and go with all kinds of carb, protein, and veggie dishes.

Greek wisdom has it that capers promote longevity and in fact they have been used throughout history to treat flatulence and inflammatory disorders such as rheumatism. The Cretan monk Agapios Monachos wrote in the 15th century of the caper: ‘it cures the spleen, destroys vermin, heals the hemorrhoids, increases the vitality of the sperm, cures liver ailments and cramps, mobilizes the urinary bladder, facilitates menstruation and prevents rheumatism.’ He recommended eating one before each meal.

Monachos may not have known it at the time, but there was good science behind his musings on the caper. For one thing, capers are a rich source of vitamins and minerals including B vitamins, zinc, and iron. Secondly, capers contain the bioflavonoids rutin, which strengthens blood capillaries, and quercetin which has powerful anti-inflammatory properties, making them heart disease-protective. They also contain isothiocyanates, which help the liver to neutralise potential carcinogens. Good news for meat-lovers is the finding, reported in Science Daily by Maria A Livrea et al. (2007), that when added to grilled meat, capers help block the formation of carcinogenic compounds – an excellent reason to use them to perk up meat dishes. When traditionally marinaded, as in Symi, capers are also a source of ‘friendly’ gut bacteria which boosts immunity and aids the digestion.

Capers are a very handy storecupboard item because they make a great accompaniment to smoked salmon and other fish dishes, chicken or rabbit casseroles, meat dishes, tuna mayonnaise, potato salads, artichokes, eggplant, omelettes, tomato-based sauces and all kinds of salads. The Symiots enjoy them just on their own, with the stem and leaf, or in the local version of Greek salad with fresh sardines and herbs.

You can use capers whole, chop them finely, or slice them. If possible, add them at the end of cooking so as not to destroy the ‘friendly’ bacteria. If you have high blood pressure, rinse them first to get rid of some of the salt and use with caution only. You are unlikely to need to add any further salt when cooking with capers.

One of the most well-known dishes using capers is the Italian spaghetti alla puttanesca – literally ‘whore’s spaghetti’. Legend has it that this dish was born in the 1950s at a popular nightspot owned by one Sandro Petti on the Italian island of Ischia. When Petti’s friends demanded some food late at night, he told them he didn’t have anything to give them. Facci una puttanata qualsiasi, they said – just make any kind of garbage. Petti only had tomatoes, olives and capers in his cupboard, so he used those and the dish and its name – used by priests, families, tourists and gourmands alike – were born.

Here is the recipe for puttanesca sauce – it is traditionally served with spaghetti or any other type of pasta, but you can also serve it with wheat-free pasta or quinoa.

Sugo alla Puttanesca (serves 2) 2 or 3 cloves garlic, mashed 2 tablespoons olive oil 1/2 teaspoon chili pepper (optional) 1 or 2 anchovies (optional) 1 tin chopped tomatoes 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1/3 cup black olives, sliced 1 tablespoon capers 1 to 2 tablespoons basil or parsley, chopped parmesan cheese, grated Gently cook the garlic in the olive oil for about half a minute, then add the chili pepper if you are using it. Add the anchovies if you are using them and mash them with the back of a wooden spoon. Add the chopped tomatoes and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the tomato paste and olives and simmer for another 10 minutes or until the liquid is reduced and the sauce is thick. Finally, add the capers and the basil or parsley and serve with the pasta and a sprinkling of parmesan cheese.